Lee's Myth: Day into Night: Hagia Sophia and More

Friday, August 08, 2014

Day into Night: Hagia Sophia and More

Black Sea Navigation: BULGARIA: [Nesebar] [Varna] ROMANIA: [Constanţa]
TURKEY: [Sinop] [Bodrum] [Istanbul: Basilica Cistern] [Istanbul: Topkapi] [Istanbul: Haigha Sophia]
GREECE: [Limnos] [Meteora] [Thira] [Athens: Acropolis and Plaka] [Acropolis Museum Highlights]

We really didn't have time to explore multiple neighborhoods, so we stuck with Sultanahmet on the theory that it would provide the maximum culture and attractions in a relatively compact geographical area. So, predictably enough, after the Cistern, we went to the Hagia Sophia.

Note the symmetry in the marble

6th Century Marble Door:
"The door separates the section where there were the private chambers
of the Emperor (metatorion) and meeting place for the Church members."

13th Century Mosaic Panel

The Blue Mosque, across from the Hagia Sophia

We did not go into the Blue Mosque, but instead headed over to "the great palace (Palatium Magnum)," apparently constructed in 324-337 under Constantine. Although unimpressive today, the private family that has undertaken to excavate, protect and restore it says that the "Byzantine Emperors lived in this area between" the 4th-9th centuries. They say "in this area" because the emperors didn't actually live in this particular location, but apparently it was part of the "Famous" Magnaura palace "where the foreign envoys [were] hosted" and at one time featured "ceilings with silver chandeliers" and much more.

The remains of a palace, underneath a carpet shop and excavated by private means.
It is free and open to the public. You don't even need to go through a shop to get in or out.

There are no particular signs of the facility's former glory, unfortunately, but it is atmospheric. And it appears that the owners have removed "600 trucks of rubble" so far to reveal the vaults to the public.

Stairway down into the "palace"

We strolled over to take a look at the Milion Stone monument, said to date from the 4th century under Constantine. It served as the "origin point" for calculating the distances to other cities in the Byzantine Empire. (Much like the Milliarium Aureum monument in Rome.)

The Milion Stone

Only 8088 kilometers to New York!

A shuttered building across from the restaurant

We met up with the rest of our mini-clan (merely 7 of the 15, the Easterners) to dine at Medusa. We got several different plates to share, and they were all really good. It was lovely to sit outside, surrounded by a lively assortment of old doors and sculptures.

There was one strange episode that unfolded in our presence; a man and a woman (apparently tourists) paused in front of the restaurant and spent a lot of time hovering over the small objects on display. The woman, in particular, kept lifting them up and looking at them, and then putting them down again. It looked very much like she was thinking of taking one if she could get away with it. I kept an eye on them, but wasn't sure whether to say anything. Eventually, one of the staff confronted them, and the woman claimed that she thought the items were for sale. I was grateful when the tourists moved off -- I really didn't trust them.

No, these are not for sale. That's why there are no price tags, no signs, and no shopkeeper hawking them to you.

We went back to the ship to sleep. Or not. Seized by a bout of insomnia, I snuck out of my room and experimented with night photography. These were taken between 2 and 3 a.m.