WHW Day 6: Kingshouse* to Kinlochleven

One of 12 posts about my 2018 UK Trip (Glasgow + West Highland Way + Oxford)

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view from the Clachaig Inn

How to tell you're in Glencoe

The day started with quite a late pick-up from the Clachaig Inn in Glencoe.  I was feeling pretty glum about the late start, and even glummer about the idea of being dropped off back at the Glencoe Mountain Resort, which would require a bit of a pavement slog to return to the West Highland Way.  I was ready a few minutes ahead of time, but of course some of the folks before me were running late, so the van arrived another 15-20 minutes behind schedule.

I thought about asking the driver to drop me off at the edge of the road leading to the resort, but thought he'd be unwilling to do it for a single passenger.  And then - miracle of miracles! - the van pulled off the road even earlier than the place I'd dreamed of.  A woman who was apparently really struggling with the walk had asked to be dropped off directly on the Way!  So I stepped out with alacrity, to the surprise of my fellow passengers who may've seen me booking past them on prior days, and started with a light heart.  So I bypassed the Kingshouse Hotel (which was under construction, hence the van trip to Glencoe) and missed perhaps a half-mile of the Way proper, mostly miserable road-walking, and it does not bother me in the slightest.

 I really pushed on to try to make sure I'd reach the Devil's Staircase while the weather held.

After all, I wasn't quite sure what the Devil's Staircase would be like - perhaps narrow rocky "stairs" that would be very slippery when wet?

As it turned out, there was nothing stairlike about it - just a sustained climb on a standard trail with gravel/scree/dirt and occasional rocks.

cairn

finally, a proper water crossing!

Eventually, on the far side of the Devil's Staircase, I saw some more spectacular rainbows.  And the rain started.  A nice, cold, steady rain.  It soaked through to chill me deeply.

Kinlochleven, when I arrived, was hosting some trail races.  So I got to see runners in bibs on the trail, in the streets, etc.  Once I found the B&B (Bank House), I had a lot of trouble finding the front entrance.  I think the cold addled my wits.  It certainly rendered me unable to open the plastic wrapper for the slippers.

Once I warmed up, showered, and settled in, I went for a walk around town.  I found I really wasn't in the mood for dining out, so I ate my emergency cheese and oat cake rations, sitting on the floor of my comfy room.  Ah, bliss!

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