Tuesday, September 06, 2011

Day 6: British Museum

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I knew I wouldn't have a lot of time at the museum, so I got there at 9 a.m. to buy my ticket for Treasures of Heaven to grab the first possible admission at.

That worked out well, so I spent an hour looking around the courtyard and gift shop and the one open exhibit, called "Living and Dying," until the museum officially opened at 10.

The Wellcome Trust Gallery

The room included some interesting artifacts and exhibits.  One display consisted of two long pouches of pills, symbolizing all the medications one modern British man and one modern British woman consumed during their respective lifetimes.  I think they said the man consumed as many medications in his last decade as he did in the first five or six decades all together.

The room also contained an Easter Island statue - one of the smaller ones, but still cool.  (It's #70 in the Museum's History of the World in 100 objects.)

I love the eskimo parkas, made of seal intestines:


This crystal skull, purportedly an ancient Mexican object, was actually a forgery that fooled quite a few people:

The Museum apparently acquired it from Tiffany & Co. in New York back in 1897.  


















Back in the Great Court:


This is a detail of one of the two totem poles in the Great Court:



Stela of Ashurnasirpal II:  The Assyrian king worshipping gods and recording his achievements:


This sculpture is identified as Prince on horseback, possibly Caligula, Rome, 1 - 50 AD:


I loved the detail on his sandals:


Treasures of Heaven:

I spent two hours poring over the exhibits.  Welcoming us was the bust reliquary of St. Baudime:


This mosaic is identified as a Hinton St Mary Mosaic Roundel (AD 350):

According to the exhibition notes:
"This is believed to be the earliest surviving depiction of Christ from Roman Britain.  He is shown clean-shaven in the manner of a Roman emperor. ... The mosaic combines pagan and Christian images."   



In the early portion of the exhibition, the organizers emphasized similarities with prior pagan practices.  For example, they grouped items that showed people with various protector gods along with similar-looking Christian equivalents.  It does seem clear that Christianity (like other religions) does not typically uproot older customs, practices and traditions entirely; instead, these things are often transformed and adapted as the believer's heart changes.  So ultimately, I don't think the similarities or adaptations necessarily prove anything about the greater truths involved - though I suppose it is evidence that can be part of a number of different arguments.

This epitaph, with the inscription "SEVERA IN DEO VIVAS," caught my eye (as it did for another blogger, who has a nice meditation on the image):


This has been translated as "Severa, may you live in God."  (The verb appears to be the 2nd person singular, active, subjunctive form of VIVERE, in the present.)

The reliquaries themselves were quite diverse - a wide range of materials and philosophies underlying their form and appearance.  Should it be simple, plain and severe, perhaps with secret compartments?  Over-the-top in opulence and reflecting the most ornate and complex craftsmanship?  Is the beauty and expense really for God's benefit, or for humans, or both?  There may be a fine line indeed between a desire to show off one's power and wealth and a sacrificially humble desire to offer the very best to God (knowing that even the best is far too little).

I'd like to try to remember the symbols of the four evangelists for future reference:

  • Matthew - man - reason
  • Mark - lion - royalty / courage / resurrection
  • Luke - ox - strength / sacrifice
  • John - eagle - sky / heaven


Other highlights from the exhibit:

  • A "griffin claw" from the shrine of St Cuthbert, which is actually an ibex horn from the late 16th or early 17th century.
  • Depiction of St Christopher bearing the infant Jesus made me think of Hagrid bearing the infant Harry in the JK Rowling story.
  • Learned that St. Lawrence was burned on a gridiron and is therefore the patron saint of chefs and cooks... 
  • ....and that the UK has at least two homegrown saints and places of pilgrimage, i.e., Thomas Becket (Canterbury) and Cuthbert (Durham).  I knew of Canterbury as a place of pilgrimage from the Canterbury Tales ("And specially from every shires ende of Engelond to Caunterbury they wende"), but it didn't occur to me there was a specific saint associated with the place. 
  • Head reliquary holding fragments of the skull of St Eustace (I never knew that any Eustace had been canonized, and this tickles me because of the way C.S. Lewis introduces a character by that name in The Silver Chair: "His name unfortunately was Eustace Scrubb, but he wasn't a bad sort.")
  • Foot reliquary of St. Blaise was really cool - I'd seen arms before, but not feet.
  • In the post-reformation section: a ring with a secret compartment showing portrait of Charles I (presumably so that the wearer could reveal his/her support to fellow sympathizers) reminded me of Suzanne Collins' book, Catching Fire.  There is a scene early on where the head game-maker shows our heroine Katniss his watch ... which has a secret mockingjay symbol on it.  


A Quick Run Through the Upper Floor:

I went through the Mesopotamian galleries on my way to ancient Egypt.  I liked this demon mask:


Like everyone else, I flocked to the mummies.  This ares was very crowded.








It was interesting to see the different ways the feet were depicted, with differing degrees of verisimilitude:







Alas, all too soon I had to leave for the airport.  I skimmed through Ancient Greece & Rome and Clocks & Watches on the way out.  I got to see the Lewis Chessmen (#61) and the Warren Cup (#36).

I have to say it's been quite a while since I've spent any time in London.  Even though I was really just passing through, I have to say it was such an incredibly positive experience and a great way to end my trip.


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